After mapping out everything we hoped to see and do in Haida Gwaii, we set our sights on camping at the Rennell Sound recreation sites. This was the day.
On our way, a rough, hand-made sign reading “Canoe Trail” caught our attention. Naturally, we had to stop. The trail itself was beautiful—quiet, green, and inviting—but what it led to was something far more powerful: a massive, unfinished Haida ocean-going dugout canoe, left in the forest over 160 years ago.
The story behind it is both fascinating and deeply moving.
The canoe dates back to the early 1860s. Haida carvers had selected an enormous red cedar tree deep in the old-growth forest, felled it, and begun shaping it into an approximately 18-metre (60-foot) vessel. This was the first stage of crafting a seaworthy canoe capable of navigating the notoriously rough waters of the Hecate Strait. The exterior would be shaped on-site to reduce weight before transport.
But the work was never completed.
In 1862, a devastating smallpox epidemic—introduced by European traders—swept through Haida Gwaii. It is estimated that over 70% of the Haida population perished. Entire villages were lost, and survivors were forced to abandon their homes, their traditions, and projects like this canoe. The carvers either died or fled, leaving the vessel behind.
Today, it remains where it was last worked on, offering a rare, frozen-in-time glimpse into traditional Haida craftsmanship. It stands not only as a testament to extraordinary skill and ingenuity, but also as a quiet monument to a tragic chapter in history.
From there, we continued toward Rennell Sound—until the road itself stopped us.
In the middle of the forest service road, we noticed a blue marking painted around what looked like a small branch.
Curious, we got out to take a closer look, only to discover the ground beneath the road had washed away. It suddenly made sense why we later learned that the Rennell Sound Forest Service Road had been officially closed. Major wooden box culverts along the route had failed, creating dangerous conditions and the risk of further washouts. Since the closure was right at the start of the road, all vehicle access to Rennell Sound was cut off.
Time for a new plan.
We decided to try our luck getting onto the ferry to Sandspit on Moresby Island. After a short wait, we made it on—and the ride turned out to be a highlight of its own. Along the way, we were treated to the sight of several whales surfacing and spouting, making it feel more like a whale-watching tour than a simple ferry crossing.
Once on Moresby Island, we set out to explore its recreation sites, starting with Gray Bay. Coincidentally, it was the warmest day we’d experienced in Haida Gwaii so far—perfect beach weather.
Naturally, that’s when we got a flat tire.
So instead of relaxing right away, we spent the warmest day of our trip changing a tire at the edge of the campsite. Not exactly what we had planned—but it’s all part of the adventure.
And Gray Bay made it worth it.
The beach was stunning—wide, sandy, and peaceful. The campsites are well spaced, giving you that rare feeling of true solitude, like you’ve stumbled into your own private corner of the wilderness. If you ever visit Haida Gwaii, this is a place you won’t want to miss.
This photo shows the patterns in the sand made by seaweed etc when the tide goes out.
This marks a fitting finale to our Haida Gwaii adventures!
Stay tuned to hear about Roux and Micca’s camping adventures!