One week is officially in the books, and as I write this, we are on the ferry heading out to Haida Gwaii. We have just be notified that there will be about a 5-hour delay due to a mechanical issue (so far). Oh well.
The transition from the mainland to the islands feels like the perfect bridge into the next chapter of our journey. Here is a look back at our final days on the coast, where history, community, and a few reminders of home caught up with us.
On our way to Prince Rupert, we stopped to visit the National Historic Site, North Pacific Cannery in Port Edwards. Walking through the site is like stepping directly back in time, but it is a heavy history to hold. It always seems unfathomable that human beings could be treated so poorly. Seeing the living quarters and learning about the appalling working conditions endured by the First Nations, Japanese, and Chinese workers is a sobering reminder of the region’s industrial past.
For decades, cannery owners exploited these diverse workforces, using racial segregation to keep wages low and prevent workers from organizing. Office workers and foremen were all white people. However, the history of this coast is also one of resilience. The United Fishermen and Allied Workers’ Union (UFAWU) played a massive, historic role here.
They fought relentlessly to unite these deeply divided, multicultural workforces—bringing together Indigenous, Chinese, Japanese, and white fishers and shoreworkers into one powerful voice to demand fair pay, safety, and human dignity.
From the history of the canneries, we moved into modern-day Prince Rupert, where we got to experience a proud, vibrant, and robust First Nations community. Now, it turns out that Prince Rupert far surpasses Vancouver in terms of annual rainfall—a fact locals know all too well (Rain Gauge Reality Check: Vancouver: 1,200 mm / year and Prince Rupert: 2,600+ mm / year) . But not today! the travel gods smiled on us: today was a spectacularly warm, sunny day that brought the entire town out into the sunshine.
We managed to scout out the perfect camp spot along an ocean-side path. As it turned out, it was also a local favorite for dog walking. We had to actively curb ourselves from stopping to talk to and pet every single dog that passed by! We are sure missing Roux and Micca—and, yes, even more so especially when a photo of them at home popped up on our phones.
At the end of the walkway, you will find an arrow which, if you stand on it and call out, you will hear your echo. We found this spot completely by accident, but it quickly became one of our favorite moments of the trip. There is something incredibly charming about watching people of all ages stand on that exact marker, yell something ridiculous into the open air, and wait with a grin for the walls to answer back. The pub right there likely had something to do with it. It’s a simple, unexpected bit of magic hidden right in plain sight.
While out enjoying the rare weather, we discovered an absolute gem of a spot thanks to some friendly locals who were also out soaking up the sun. We wandered into the Sunken Garden, a beautiful, lush oasis established and lovingly maintained by the community.
While we were there, a local (Schatzi’s person) kindly pointed upward to show us a magnificent eagle nesting high in the branches of a nearby tree. It felt like a perfect, quiet moment of connection.
As we begin this second week of our trip, I can feel us still actively unwinding from the stress of these past months. It’s hard not to let the mind wander back to tough situations, and as I try to fathom how some unscrupulous, ill-willed people can continue to disrupt lives, I have to consciously force things back into perspective. I’m leaning heavily on a classic adage right now: “Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by ignorance.”
With that thought left on the mainland, we are looking forward to the open water, the fresh sea air, and whatever Haida Gwaii has waiting for us. Next stop: the Edge of the World!
